Each season the fashion industry produces thousands of designs, from which the fashion press almost magically selects the most characteristic silhouettes. For the Temporary Fashion Museum Jop van Bennekom of the magazine Fantastic Man and Penny Martin of The Gentlewoman choose the most iconic pieces of the Spring-Summer 2016 season.
The Now S/S 2016 Looks
Look 5 from Prada Men Spring/Summer 2016 Collection presents a stitched, lightweight wool coat, astitched nylon jersey shirt with patchwork, inspired by the world of workwear. The outfit is embellished by a lambswool vest, characterised by the coloured stripes, gabardine cotton belt and jersey and lisle knit socks. A pair of polished calfskin boots, characterized by solid black and the use of elastic, complete the look.
Stonewash denim three button deconstructed shop coat with mending stitch embroidery. Stonewash denim bomber with mending stitch embroidery (worn underneath). Stonewash denim sailor trousers with mending stitch embroidery. White leather derby shoes.
A multi-dimensional workwear suit inspired by real life uniforms; an observation of society and its social codes. The suit is a clever play on bold minimalism and uses multiple illusions. An orange, oversized, cotton reversible, double-sided workwear shirt offers two options for its wearer. It can be worn unbuttoned on one side creating a dramatic backless effect with movement, or closed on both sides for a more subdued effect. Paired with an orange double-layer 'biker' workwear skirt. The front panel of this deep split skirt can be worn open allowing for volume to fall to the sides creating movement and fluidity. The front panels of the skirt can also be worn closed, wrapped around the body and with a velcro fastening hiding a mini skirt.
One-piece jumpsuit in off-white panama silk with jasper red stripes, restitched bustier in off-white double-faced cotton and silk. Trainers in white technical canvas and grey-beige suede goatskin.
Smocked georgette blouse with Rik Rak lace inserts. Silk jersey track pants with zipped hem and rainbow side stripe.
Multicolour animal print silk crepe shirt, patchwork print cotton jumper and matching silk crepe wide leg pants. The look is accessorised with a neon green and yellow stripe canvas belt with black metal Medusa head and leather and canvas platform sandals with a light gold Medusa buckle. The SS16 Versace woman is unleashed in the urban jungle. Energised animal prints clash and contrast with the attitude of the street, with acid leopard and zebra prints combined sportswear inspired pieces mixed with platform sandals for a feminine look.
Part of the Spring / Summer 2016 collection, the Mohair Wrap Suit plays with the perceptions of uniform and tradition engrained in our collective cultural consciousness. Constructed from a fine wool/mohair cloth traditionally used for men’s formal and eveningwear suiting, and woven in Bradford, England, by weavers specialising in mohair worsteds since 1875. The suit embodies designer Paula Gerbase’s philosophy of Purity and Restraint, and underlines 1205’s ethos of a playful yet considered unravelling of traditional and unspoken codes of dress.
Look 19 comprises a sleeveless shirt with hood in black and green, cropped short-sleeved shirt with button graphic in ochre navy, velcro shorts in black and yellow, caban with all over eyelet graphic and wipper in black, as well as Adidas Stan Smith sneakers in aged black.
Drape front blouson with zip and buttoned waistband closure, button cuffs and dart detail in white matte viscose double georgette. Worn with criss-cross drape front shirt, with hidden button closure, flat front trousers in white habotai silk, paisley patterned silk scarves in grey and olive tones. Black suede ankle boot with fringe, elastic, black rubber sole and stitched spoiler.
Taupe suit in light nylon parachute fabric with adjustable straps, juxtaposed with a classic cotton poplin shirt and techno wool tie. The result is a sharp silhouette that has the practicality of a uniform. The accessories, such as the geometric bag with cut-out handles and the lace-ups shoes with thick soles, add another layer to the look as a whole.
Black wool Bar jacket with white cotton veil lingerie top and shorts. Slingback shoes in white patent calfskin, Dior garden collar in viscose and polyester, Dioroscope medium necklace in metal with palladium finish adorned with translucent brown and transparent resin discs, number ‘’8’’ in metal with palladium finish.
Full-cut trousers in dark green technical wool. Button-down collar shirt in brick red technical fabric with contrasting topstitching. High-collar zip-up jacket in camel technical cotton. Narrow tie in brick red technical fabric. Hightop trainers in grey technical fabric. (Substitute bag) grey-washed messenger in technical cotton.